A Pilgrimage to Pilgrim Country: A Roadtripper’s Guide to Northern England

KING HENRY VIII of England had no doubts. In 1536, faced with uppity “traitors and rebels,” he dubbed the county of Lincolnshire as one of the “most brute and beestelie [beastly] of the hole realme.” It was a tad unfair but, even today, the county is not an immediate choice as a vacation destination. It’s a part of northern England that drivers speed through, unimpressed by the big skies and widescreen sunsets and unaware of the historic secrets to be discovered in the villages, great halls and solid stone churches.

This…

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