The Restaurant at the Edge of the Coronavirus Pandemic

Omar Popal apologizes mid-call: “Sorry, I have to take a telephone order.” His sister, Fatima Popal, stays on the line. “We’ve had just 12 orders all day,” she says. This last one is for leek dumplings—made from a family recipe—and lamb pilaf, around $25 for the till. It’s nearly 6 p.m. on March 22. What should have been a swamped (and satisfying) Sunday at Lapis—an Afghan bistro in the Adams Morgan neighborhood of Washington—has been, instead, a fiasco.

On the first Sunday in March this year, by comparison, Lapis seated…

Leave a Reply

Back to top